Kyoto for the Holidays (Part Three of Three)

This is the last part of a three-part series on my recent trip to Kyoto. If you want to read about what you can do in a full day, you can read part two here. If you want some bullet train advice and what to do on arrival, you can read part one here.

And here's the thumbnail: an exterior shot of the main residence at Nijo Castle.

In any case, our last day in Kyoto was relatively slow-paced. We checked out of the hotel and dropped our luggage off in a locker at Kyoto station before returning to Nijo Castle. Before we hit the road again, we decided to eat at a fried Japanese food restaurant, where we received some of the most passive-aggressive service I've ever experienced. I was the only foreign patron in the restaurant, and it seemed to colour their treatment of my girlfriend and I. We were seated at the bar despite the fact that most of the tables were empty and they didn't take any reservations. They also didn't offer to do anything with our coats and my girlfriend's lightweight backpack, whereas the other visitors were immediately asked for their coat and luggage. The other patrons were definitely more of a priority.

The kitchen staff did alright. Maybe the wait staff were just having a bad day?

Anyway, they at least had decent food, but it was as clear as Japanese service etiquette could make it that we weren't welcome there, so I scarfed down the food as quickly as I could. My girlfriend had lost her appetite thanks to the wait staff, so we went to get something light and quick elsewhere. There were a few Starbucks branches around so we sat in one for a little bit to nibble on the light fare.

With our stomachs satisfied, we hopped aboard a bus to Nijo Castle. Unfortunately, the castle itself was closed for renovations. It seems that the inside of the castle is actually what would take up most of the time, as the grounds are not that big and the flora is nothing too special, especially in winter. Despite the closure though, there were still a fair number of visitors walking around.

Not a lot of people, but enough to make me wait to be able to take this photo.

There is a large moat around the castle, and there is a large amount of carp living inside of it. Unlike Osaka Castle however, there isn't much of a walk around it. I remember visiting that castle and getting lost with all the unguided routes and little dead ends. The grounds of this particular historic area are much smaller, and a lot more straightforward. There was a souvenir shop and cafe area for Nijo Castle though, so Nijo Castle wins out against Osaka Castle when compared for resting areas. Osaka Castle had various seating areas, but they were all quite far from each other.

This was the most interesting sight for me without going inside the castle.

We went back to Kyoto station after resting our legs for a little bit at the cafe area and actually explored a little bit. There is a large auditorium of sorts where a giant Christmas tree was set up. This thing must have been at least two stories tall. A Mister Donut and a pie shop were set up just under the tree, so there was a nice seating area where you could have a snack while viewing the monumental tree.

Merry Christmas.

We also tried out a tea shop, named Sir Thomas Lipton, to sort of wind down the trip. For a cake and two drinks, the place was quite expensive, but it seemed to be very popular. Since the tea house was named after the founder of Lipton teas, I suppose it made sense that it would be as expensive and crowded inside. In any case, the drink and cake I consumed was actually higher class than what I usually take in.

I should have known it would have been relatively fancy.

For dinner we went to a tonkatsu, or fried pork cutlet, restaurant that was loads better than the fried food place we ate at earlier. The service was much better and the food was tastier. The restaurant is a chain that is apparently only found in the Kansai area. I have the impression that Kansai region restaurants pair their food with red miso soup, which is a touch saltier than the white miso soup found in Kanto region shops, but perhaps I am wrong.

The restaurant is called とんかつKYK ( or Tonkatsu KYK in English characters.)

Before boarding the train back to Tokyo, we stopped by a dimsum place near an exit of the building called 551 Horai. They sold the juiciest, softest pork buns I've had in a long time, and they are definitely on the list of food to recommend. We had them in the waiting room for the bullet trains, and we hopped onto the train heading for Tokyo just as we finished.

Of all the food available at Kyoto station, you at least need to try this place.

That's it for the Kyoto trip. Thanks for reading!